I want to thank all the forum members that offered advice and provided circuitry layouts. With that educational info I have finally resolved my stuck hatch failure. It was a combination of issues that had to be corrected. As I was once again not getting a whirring sound from the hatch motor, when pulling on the driver's switch, I discovered that the lead to the motor had once again disconnected. After reconnecting the lead, I still couldn't get a whirring sound. Researching the forum supplied electrical chart, I discovered that power to the motor travels via power board 7.5 amp fuse #24 (lighting) and which was blown. Evidence that the fuse was blown was indicated by lack of interior courtesy lighting. I replaced the fuse, which immediately blew and replaced it again with the same result. As a last result, I inserted a 10 amp fuse, the lights came on and I got a straining whirring sound as the motor forced the lock open! With the hatch now open, when I pulled the open switch, every thing operated normally. I could even open the mechanical lock with the key. Now the assumption was that the motor and circuitry were fine but the lock was binding. Checking how the hatch tongue entered the body latch opening, revealed that it was offset. I tried readjusting both of the lock assembly positions but the bolt holes were permanent and there was no allowance for movement. Finally, I checked the hatch side alignment and discovered, an uneven gap between the fenders and the hatch was causing the misalignment and binding. Now I just have to determine the procedure to make the hatch adjustment. Anyone that has made that adjustment have advice?